Day 20 Wednesday 14 September Khorog to Murgab

Left Khorog & travelled as far as the tunnels & thought as we were still overheating we’d better return & look for a tray truck to take us to Bishkek.

Leaving Khorog: typical ex Soviet monument found in most towns in the Stans.

We came back to the police control. One asked what Game we were playing as we came through their control 3 times. After much discussion between 6 police & several onlookers, they wanted $2,000 to take us to Bishkek. We refused their offer & continued on. Again the roads were shocking. Passed through magnificent mountain ranges but distracted by the eye on the water gauge.

Scenery in Tajikistan

At one stop, it was quite cold so I went looking for some hot tea. Their were 3 shops on this pass and one lady took me under her wing, found a kettle, sold me some tea bags & made us some hot tea. Whilst the kettle was boiling, she brought out an exercise book showing me she was learning English. We had a great chat, I took her photo & we were on our way again.

This lady was in a group of 3 shops high up in the mountains. It was so cold I went looking for hot tea. She found a kettle, boiled water, sold me some tea bags & then produced her English homework.

We made it to Murgab under our own steam with the gauge running between normal & hot for most of the way. We arrived about 10.30 with only the Porsche there. We were extremely low on petrol as stations are few & far in these parts.

Boy on bike: he lead us on a wild goose chase through the village (& yurts) looking for benzine..unsuccessfully

The accommodation was another Homestay, fairly basic with bathroom facilities & toilet way out in the backyard.

The interesting thing about staying with a local family is that they all seem to have a spare room full of folded blankets. Probably because of the distances when family/friends arrive they stay awhile.

We have to look for petrol in the morning.

Some disturbing grinding noises after dark, will investigate tomorrow.

This shepherd was interested in a bit of Morgan bonnet lifting...meanwhile his sheep wandered off & he had to chase them.

Landrover & Puce Goose on the road after he discovered we had no rear brakes

Chinese rabbit proof fence...unsure whether to keep the Chinese and/or Tajiks out.