Day 10 Sunday 4th September 2011 Mashad to Ashgabat, Turkmenistan

This morning the 2 Landrovers & us decided to visit the old stepped mud brick village of Kang, south west of Mashad. The drive up through the hills was the usual dusty way until we reached villages surrounded by trees & gardens. Then there were lots of trees but very dusty & looked as if they hadn’t seen any rain for a long, long time. All through here there were tea-houses & restaurants with seats & umbrellas but we never saw a soul. All the places had elaborate gate entrances which looked quite out of place in the area.

When we reached the mud village we climbed the stone steps until we reached the top, taking photos as we went. Most of the houses had porch balconies & earthen roofs From a balcony, a man motioned us to come up so we did. The house was 3 main rooms and the floors were covered in rugs. Two children aged 8 & 4, 2 adults & grandma were all in attendance. Out came plums & then cups of hot tea. As our compulsory guide was with us, we were able to communicate & ask questions as did they. It was a lovely moment & so different to the hectic pace of Mashad.

We were invited to stay for lunch but we had to meet the others at the Turkmenistan border so sadly bid the lovely family farewell.

Another hot, mountainous climb to the border & after an hour we were through to the Turkmenistan side. Another compulsory guide & US dollars for this, that & everything else:. For us there was a Visa fee of $55 (the English had to pay $85), $10 immigration fee & $2 taxes. Then for the car there was a fee of $115, including $45 fuel levy because fuel is so cheap. Two & a half hours later we drove to Ashgabat about 35kms away. Because the bank was closed at the border, we needed petrol & were able to pay in US dollars ( 28 menats ($US10) got us 44.5 litres of petrol).

Out of the winding mountain road we came down into the valley and there in front of us was a vision of white. The whole city is built from white marble & the most amazing, over the top buildings. Wide boulevards with elaborate street lights & manicured gardens.

Ashgabat (Arabic for City of Love) was demolished by an earthquake in 1948 and the replacement Soviet buildings were themselves replaced in the last few decades, financed by oil & gas revenues.

On to the hotel & what a sight! The most opulent room we have ever experienced. Very large & comfortable with even a flat screen TV over the bath. Pity I didn’t have time to indulge!

From a mud village this morning to this marble palace this afternoon was a bit too much to comprehend.