Wednesday 10th May 2017
Wakkanai to Otaru
All manner of tourist tat for sale
Looking for a place for dinner we came across a small place with a woman proprietor who said she only did Japanese BBQ. We thought that would be alright. There were only 3 other customers in the 10 seater restaurant. A lot was lost in translation and we ended up with a small plate of beef and chicken and pork shaslicks. Nothing else! Had an icecream on the way back to the hotel.
Wakkanai to Otaru
It was daylight by 4am so up early and on the road by 7.30am as we had a long drive ahead of us. Puce Goose had a nice warm night in a stacker. Wakkanai is only 43km south of the town of Sakhalin in Russia, hence all the roads signs in Russian. Before the war, ferries ran this route but not since.
The lift in our Wakkanai hotel had a toilet in the lift (for emergency use!)
Wakkanai
The lift in our Wakkanai hotel had a toilet in the lift (for emergency use!)
Emergency use toilet in hotel lift
Driving out of town the kindergarten bus came the other way. It had a moulded Mickey Mouse type character on its front.
We headed south down the coast road. We could see the islands of Rebun and Rishiri out to the west. The two islands constitute the first (or last) volcanoes in the chain that stretches the length of Hokkaido. The circular Rishiri island is about 63km in circumference and has Mt Rishiriyama in the centre and it was covered in snow. This island is famous for kelp, sea urchin and other marine products. An amazing amount of driftwood washes up on this coast (as well as rubbish).
We headed south down the coast road. We could see the islands of Rebun and Rishiri out to the west. The two islands constitute the first (or last) volcanoes in the chain that stretches the length of Hokkaido. The circular Rishiri island is about 63km in circumference and has Mt Rishiriyama in the centre and it was covered in snow. This island is famous for kelp, sea urchin and other marine products. An amazing amount of driftwood washes up on this coast (as well as rubbish).
We passed several fishing villages.
Drying fish
Driving through the Sarobetsu wilderness
Traffic lights in the middle of nowhere
Typical coastal village
At one, women were busy stacking new fishing nets onto a boat. Others had new nets ready for the season.
In another town old women were digging street garden beds for planting.
At one, women were busy stacking new fishing nets onto a boat. Others had new nets ready for the season.
In another town old women were digging street garden beds for planting.
It was terribly windy all along the coast and in places we were buffeted by a strong cold wind. Large groups of turbines were turning briskly.
Interestingly the houses along the coast in many places had put up timber wind barriers in front of their properties.
Wind barrier with its own door!
Many derelict and tumbling down properties also along this road. Apparently there are about 8 million abandoned houses in Japan (this doesn't include commercial premises). We surmise that most of them are on Hokkaido!
Interestingly the houses along the coast in many places had put up timber wind barriers in front of their properties.
Many derelict and tumbling down properties also along this road. Apparently there are about 8 million abandoned houses in Japan (this doesn't include commercial premises). We surmise that most of them are on Hokkaido!
One town we came through had a welcome sign, indicating it was a "romantic sea town" (didn't look very romantic!), another had a welcome sign on a very large plastic penguin.
South of Rumoi we drove through tunnel after tunnel. Unlike other areas of Japan, they don't have a sign indicating the length of the tunnel but some were quite long and also seemed quite new. In one there was a fox who stood and stared as we passed him.
We are staying in Otaru for two nights (the Goose is in a stacker again). We walked towards the Music Museum and came across a Museum of Stained Glass and Art Nouveau Glass. It is a marvellous collection of French glass by Galle, Lalique and the Daum brothers. The stained glass windows (140 of them) were complete late 19th century and early 20th century windows from churches in England.
Furniture by Louis Marjorelle
Parallel to the canal there is a street with many buildings from the late 1890's which is now devoted to shops selling all manner of glass objects. Glass craft started here in the early 1900's as the fishing industry increased and there was a demand for glass floats used in fishing. Currently there are 13 glass blowing studios in the city.
Amongst the shops selling tourist tat there were food shops, many giving out samples of chocolate, cake, biscuits, Italian wine etc.
Amongst the shops selling tourist tat there were food shops, many giving out samples of chocolate, cake, biscuits, Italian wine etc.
Looking for a place for dinner we came across a small place with a woman proprietor who said she only did Japanese BBQ. We thought that would be alright. There were only 3 other customers in the 10 seater restaurant. A lot was lost in translation and we ended up with a small plate of beef and chicken and pork shaslicks. Nothing else! Had an icecream on the way back to the hotel.
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