Day 16 Monday 28th November 2016
Salta to Atacama (510 kms)

The next day or so it was going to be difficult to find petrol so the idea was to fill up when we could. On the way into town last night we bought a container to carry 20 litres now that we had room on the luggage rack as the boys were still carrying our bag.

It was drizzling but decided against putting up the bimany. The only Regularity today was "El Disconicidos', 70 kph, uphill and gravel. We were on target and keeping good speed until about 3 kms from the end we caught up with a commuter bus and a utility in front of it. There was no chance of passing so we were unlucky and would receive the maximum penalty.



From the regularity we reached Alba Blanca at 4,100mts. Not much habitation  but the few houses blended in with the brown coloured rock.


We passed over a large number of railway crossings but never saw a train. After another time control we climbed to Alto Chorrillo at 4,600 mts, then another 180kms of rough road to the Argentine Chile border at Sico. After another lengthy immigration, passport and carnet & customs control we passed into Chile. The roads were immediately better. The landscape was lunar with yellow coloured scrub and the distant peaks were snow covered.

A group of guanacos ran across the road in front of us and their colour blended in with the yellow scrub. We passed several salt pans and hot springs.

About 90kms from the hotel we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn. We are now in the Atacama desert and the houses are adobe and mud covered rock. They blend in with the surroundings.

The hotel is lovely and tomorrow will be spent working on the car to fix the suspension, fix the passenger door which cannot open easily, tighten the hand brake, check the brakes and fix the Halda.

Day 15 (Sunday 27th November 2016)
Tucuman to Salta (376 kms)



The sun is shining again.
The first Regularity was Cerros Tucumanos, about 20kms out of town. This one was 50kph but again the road surface did not suit the Morgan and there were washaways, narrow tracks and care needed.

The time control was at a village called  El Jardin. No chance of getting lost here as there were small numbers of local people on all the corners. When the marshalls arrived, the town was deserted but word soon got around that there were rally cars in town and we were swamped with families all wanting photos of their children with, or in some cases, in the cars.

We were warned that the next sectíon was 'muddy' and that care and patience was required. We can do that!!. Well, mud after 40 or so cars have gone through soon turns to rutted muddy slush. In addition to the mud, there were numerous washaways across the road.

We made it through fairly easy (navigators were hanging on for dear life as the left side was a very deep drop and the right side rock wall) until the last 20 metres and had to be towed the last little bit by the photographer.

Worse was to come. Through the next corner where one of the Mustangs had gone very close to the edge and was waiting for a tow we discovered that we had no brakes.

So it was out with the drop cloth to get under the car in the slushy mud. Two of the marshalls came along and between Graham & Phil diagnosed a brake line had rubbed through on the extractors. We then waited for the sweeper car and Andy the Wondér Mechanic.

So Andy quickly made a new line and we were on our way again. There was insufficient time to make the circuit test or the time control so we knew we would tumble down the leader board. We decided to head for the hotel.

Around this time we had doubts about the accuracy of our Halda given the shaking it had borne and the dust getting inside. From where we had to repair the brake line to the next passage control was 117 kms so we knew that was impossible to reach before it closed. The road was rutty, dusty and slow going. We did get to see the local farmyards. We passed farmyards, dodged chickens on the road, an enormous pig on the road and several gauchos, very distinctive with their broad brimmed practical hats.

Day 14 Saturday 26 th November 2016
La Rioja to Tucuman (516kms)



The morning dawned with a drizzle, sufficient moisture for us to put up the bimany (small hood cover) for the first time.

We arrived at the start of the Regularity La Lancha to find that it has been cancelled due to heavy rain overnight. A long drive then to the time control at El Rodeo. Interesting patch of birds' nests on the electric wires.... not sure what birds they were but we did not see any. Many goats running loose on the roadsides. There were orange groves with small stalls selling bags of oranges and melons.

One feature of road travelling here is the number of police roadside checks. Rally cars are usually waved through, unless you are unfortunate enough to be pulled over for  'curiosity'!

The Regularity was El Serpiente, as the name suggests a winding twisting road at 80kph. We took it fairly easy due to the broken spring.
The scenery around here was orange groves, crops of maize and paddocks of colourful sunflowers. On the way into Tucuman a couple of busloads of young men were hanging out the windows of their buses (no shirts on), shouting, waving and taking photos of us.
It is another long weekend here so many families were out walking, talking and having fun.

Day 13 Friday 25th November 2016
San Juan to La Rioja (482 kms)



First test today was a fast circuit of one and a quarter laps at Autodromo El Zonda, just 14kms out of town making a change from the dusty, rocky roads.

Onwards the scenery through here was sandy dry scrub with soaring Andes in the background. Lots of abandoned stone houses...the structure was still there but no roof. The road had many dips and spillways.

The route to the first Regularity was through dry river beds and a particularly narrow one way tunnel (where we happened to meet a van coming the other way, we backed off).

The Regularity was called Lunar Valley due to the unusual lunar landscape. We had to be pushed started because the ignition switch was playing up but we thought at the time that it was the battery.
All cars drive with their lights on, so with lights on, radiator fan on & wipers going, we thought the battery must have been drained.

One unusual thing we have seen along the roadsides is heaps of plastic bottles with maybe a little grotto in the middle. At first we thought it must have been dumping places, or places to put recycling bottles but a locals told one of the team that it was to do with fertility.

Starting to appear on the landscape now were tall thin cactus plants which are now blooming with creamy coloured flowers. Also reddish rock formations and the wind is back!

Later in the day Phil noticed a loud destructive sounding rubbing noise- no time to investigate and we completed the circuit at La Rioja. At the hotel the investigation revealed a suspected broken spring. The local guide found a suspension (elastico) shop  selling all manner of things for cars and bikes. We bought a leaf spring much to the other customers' amusement. It was from a Fiat, wider than what we wanted but thought we could modify on the next rest day.

Peter and David in a hire car (their 1939 Ford Coupe had broken down) took our luggage to take weight off the rear end.

Today was the hottest day we have experienced, around 42 degrees so it was a relief to get to the hotel.

 Day 12 Thursday 24th November 2016
Vina Del Mar, Argentina to San Juan, Chile (570kms)

A cool start at 8.12am. Within a stretch of 69kms we passed 3 toll booths with tolls costing 5,100 pesos (650 to US$).

The only Regularity of the day was at Cajon De Los Valles, another dirt road but not as dusty or rocky as previous tests. Even so, with the ruts we could not make the average speed of 50kph. Also had to be on the lookout for horses .

Another 90 or so kms further on we reached the Argentinian border and waited ages to get through immigrations and then get the car carnet stamped, first one booth then the next. One of the officials would not stamp our carnet arguing that the Chile transit paper was sufficient. We insisted on the stamp otherwise poor Puce Goose would be stranded in Chile.

The trip through the rocky Andes was spectacular with pink and brown rock formations with snow higher up. The area was quite desolate with very little habitation or animals.
The road from the border climbed through a very winding road, signs indicating that there were at least 28 curves/bends. There were lots of tunnels, one nearly one km in length. So many trucks on the road, both ways, that it was impossible to pass. 


One stretch of road works was traffic controlled and some cars waited nearly 30 minutes. Engines and tempers were starting to boil in the very hot sun. Our temperature gauge started to climb to hot but once we got moving the cool air flowed. Most noticeable was the effect on idling of the high climb.

Rather than take the rough road to Jocoli we took an alternative route, passing a stunning blue lake, a penitentiary, a man BBQing on the side of the road in a 44 gal drum and selling the meat to passing cars or people could sit at tables and chairs he had set up in the middle of nowhere.
We also passed the vineyards and wineries of Mendoza. Came across patches of growing vines which had black nets from the bottom up rather that the top down white nets seen at home.

On the final stage to the hotel we passed through yet another vehicle inspection for meat and vegetables. Then a vehicle sanitary inspection for which we paid 15 pesos. 

Day 11 Wednesday 23 November 2016
Vina Del Mar, Argentina



Rest day today so the car park is a hive of activity. Most relaxed in the hotel overlooking the Pacific Ocean and watching large birds sit on rocks and dive for fish. Others took the tour into Valparaiso. One of our Australian contingent was robbed in broad daylight. A youth in a hoodie grabbed her handbag which was across her shoulder and chest, resulting in bruising and shock.

Many of the buildings in Valparaiso were severely damaged in the 2010 earthquake and many have not been rebuilt for lack of funds. Interesting to see an original Easter Island statue outside a museum, which was brought over in 1951.

Dinner on rest days is not supplied so a group of 6 of us had delicious fish dinners at a restaurant called Terra del Fuego.

The dust and rough roads are playing havoc with all our electronics. The computer will not do certain functions so excuse the weird errors. Zips are jamming, cameras are doing strange things.

Day 10 (Tuesday 22nd November 2016

Concepcion to Vina Del Mar   634 kms



Out into peak hour traffic and cool weather to the first Regularity, 70kph at Rafael.
Once again it was kms of awful gravelly, rocky roads. These regularities take place on open roads so it is quite usual to face oncoming local traffic. We met 2 trucks, a bus and 2 cars so it was futile to keep up the 70kph speed and be safe. The consensus is that the regularity speed for many of the classic cars is too fast for the conditions, the dust being a major hazard. Some cars failed to take a right fork but nearly everyone except the top few cars received the maximum penalty of one minute. We had an issue with the penalty given to us which contradicted the timing card.



Onto a dual carriageway with lots of trucks and numerous toll booths (around 2000-3000 pesos each time). Passed lots of vineyards, some growing their vines vertically and the major petrol stations in this area had vertical garden walls, orange trees are also grown around here and we passed one hut on the road selling bags of oranges and straw brooms.

Lunch was at San Fernando where we had plenty of time to have lunch. Leaving here our timing Halda played up and whilst we were trying to fix it we missed a turn-off from the multi-laned freeway and consequently couldn't turn back so had to go across country to make the Passage Control at Pomaire. We circled this town several times as we didn't have accurate mileage due to Halda stopping for many kms . Others were also circling the town to locate the passage control when we spotted the mechanics' van (they also overshot the turn-off) and we made the control with minutes to spare.
Through eucalypt trees we joined the main freeway to Vina Del Mar with many narrow twisting roads with trucks. Tricky navigation to the hotel with peak hour traffic and we made it with twelve minutes to spare. What a stressful day

!

Day 9 (Monday 21st November 2016)
Villarica to Concepcion  453 kms





Picturesque drive along the lake to the start of the Regularity Flor Del Lago. This test was at 60kph over rocky gravel and over one way wooden bridges. We were flat out on the dirt gravel roads and still couldn't keep up the required speed. Climbed 40 degree hair pin bends and at one stage found ourselves in a run-off but continued on, bouncing sideways.



Leaving Melipeuco we stopped at Curacautin where all the primary school children came out to look at the cars. We had to horn our way through most of them. All were keen to get photos of themselves with the cars. It was quite colourful as some of the children had bright red school tops. A few school teachers interviewed some of the teams.

Entering the National Park, paying 6,000 pesos per person, we drove along narrow and twisting gravel roads and the scenery was magnificent with Volcano Lanin in the background and lava fields along the road. Stopping at Lago Arcoris (a blue lake with petrified trees in it) there was another group of noisy school children.

The afternoon Regularity was at Valle Del Culenco. Difficult navigation, hairpin bends, bridges without considering the amount of dust from the cars in front. There is a lot of logging in this area and trucks piled high with logs, or wood chips were everywhere. We also passed the odd tractor on the roads.

It was very circuitous navigation into Concepcion with lots of road works. We saw the same exit several times, going around in circles & stressing because we thought we would miss the Time Control at the finish of the day.
Eventually reached the hotel with minutes to spare. Seems most people were in the same situation.

On arrival at the hotel the drill is to unpack the luggage from the car, remove as much dust as we can, and carry it all up to our room. Why hotels supply white towels when a rally contingent comes to stay is beyond me. Pity the poor laundry.

Day 8 (Sunday 20th November 2016)
Llao Llao, Bariloche to Villarica, Chile    400 kms

Another fluffed start...shouldn't have rest days!
Up early to do a chilly short scenic circuit at sunrise whilst all was quiet. Fabulous views looking back down on the hotel with the morning sun on it. 

Finally out of the control at 8.42am and transport stage to the Regularity of Passo Del Cordoba. Speed was 50kph which gives some indication of the state of the gravelly, rocky road. Scenery was magnificent with tall rocky outcrops dominating the skyline. Difficult test and lost 14 seconds which wasn't too bad but dropped us into 10th place.

Much of the next transport stage was through beautiful camping areas which was particularly busy being Sunday.

Reached the border and passed through Argentinian Immigration and Customs. Into the Chilean side and first up was passport control, then stamping of the car carnet and worst of all we had to unpack all of our luggage, carry it into the X-ray machine and then repack. All up it took over an hour for us to get going again. 

Passing the magnificent volcano of Lanin we came to the overnight stop near Pucon, overlooking the lake.

Day 7 (Saturday 19th November 2016)
Rest Day at Llao Llao

After a leisurely breakfast (one of the best to date) it was out to the car park to look over the car and try and get some of the dust off and out of the car. A leak from a welsh plug also needed attention.
Rear brakes were adjusted, front end was greased and various items tightened up as well as few bolts replaced which had fallen off.

The outdoor car park was full of cars with teams crawling in and under to treat problems or simply washing & cleaning.
The day is sunny with fresh mountain air, a great and unusual place to do running repairs.

Day 6  (18th November 2016)
Esquel to Bariloche  364 kms.



Everyone was looking forward to a shorter distance today but not to the nearly 200 kms on the gravel, rocky roads.

After 40 kms we arrived at the Parque Nacional  and gravel roads. The first Regularity was fairly straight forward but very very dusty for us in an open car. The finish line was a bit tricky with the finish board displayed but the marshalls were hidden behind bushes, being tricky or simply getting out of the dust we don't know! Some cars continued on without noticing the marshalls so copped penalties. The scenery was spectacular with snow capped mountains in the distance. The road was lined with colourful wild lupins and yellow broom (or egg & bacon plants as some know it).

The lunch stop was at the El Maiten train station which has a museum for the Old Patagonian Express steam train. The locals put on a lovely lunch of meat & salads with the train blowing steam in the background. A huge crowd of locals were out and about as there was a steam train festival on. Local families admired the cars, took photos of their children near , or in some cases, in the cars.

For some reason we had difficulty finding our way out of town but eventually got to the start of the next Regularity, once again on rocky, gravel road at 70 kph. We came around a sweeping corner increasing speed only to find the secret finish line. One of the rules is that cars must finish astride the markers. We missed it so not only were we 9 seconds late we copped 10 second penalty for not finishing astride the line.

Another 40 kms on, we entered the Kartodromo Lewis go-cart track for a quick run around the circuit. It had no set bogey time and a Porshe did it in the quickest time of 1 min 7 secs so that became the benchmark, We did it in 1 min 17 seconds which was pretty good for our car.

The night stop was at the Llao Llao Resort about 24 km from Bariloche.. This old hotel (our rooms are in the old section with the original furnishings) sits on a hill surrounded by snow capped mountains and overlooks a large lake. A magnificent setting for a rest day to forget the dirt & dust of the previous 2 days.

Day 5 (Thursday 17th November 2016)
Puerto Madryn to Esquel   692 kms

A different start order today...reverse order of placings which puts us near the back starters.
We started off with a malfunctioning electronic timer, then took a wrong turn down a one way street and eventually timer came good and found our way to the Autodromo Mar Y Valle. Here we had to do 2 laps with a target time of 4 mins 48 secs. We beat the target time by 32 secs but you don't earn any points for this achievement.

Another 30 kms further on was a morning tea stop at the Welsh village of Gaiman. Amazing food of sandwiches, pastries, scones with good pots of tea. Entertainment was children doing Welsh dancing, an Argentinian dance and a singer.  The residents are keeping alive the Welsh traditions of their forebears.

Another 169kms further on there was a fuel station but it had no fuel and it was a further 102 kms to the next one. We were not sure we would make the distance but had no choice.
Our gauge showed empty for so long but knew we had 20kms once the gauge showed empty. Quite a stressful time as we watched the speedo creep slowly forward. It was one way to slow down the driver as we conserved what fuel we had left.  Arrived at the fuel station to find a long queue of cars all desperate for fuel.

The lunch stop was at Paso Los Indios and once again all the locals came out to look at the cars and take photos.

After lunch we hit the first of a long day on gravel roads. Not only were the roads gravel but quite large rocks all about. The dust was horrendous. Over the next 150 kms we did 2 Regularities and by the second one we dusted off our ski goggles so we could actually see.

The night stop was in Esquel and the cars were reverse parked in the street in front of the hotel. Lots of locals admiring the cars well into the night.

Day 4 (Wednesday 16th November 2016)
Puerto Madryn  Rest Day

We had signed up to go whale watching today but on arrival at the hotel last night we were informed that it was cancelled due to the strong winds and that the port had been closed since the previous day.
Hotel a little way out of town so we walked down to the restaurants facing the sea. Managed to get back to the hotel between rain showers. A lot of activity under cars and bonnets.


For full rally reports, results and official photo gallery go to:

www.endurorally.com/pages/rally-of-the-Incas

Day 3 (Tuesday 15th November 2016)
Bahia Blanca to Puerto Madryn  769 kms



A very long drive awaited us today, passing several flower and fruit controls but we were waved through without any checks. After 120 kms or so we crossed the Rio Colorado into Patagonia. Long stretches without much interest- pampas grass and sand dunes.

The first test today was at the Autodromo at Viedma. Before we reached the circuit on the outskirts of town many of the rally cars were pulled over by the police to the side of the road. Eventually we realised that this was done for the benefit of the town residents who came out to take photographs so we all drove off.

Once again it was a quick drive around the circuit. The hay bales blocking off parts of the track was a bit disconcerting until we spotted the small orange flags indicating which way to go. Being so low down we couldn't see the flags until we were close.

The Regularity was taking place in the Camino Costale area- gravel roads with lots of cattle grids. The average speed was 80 kph (70kph for the older cars) and named Moby Dick but who had time to look for whales in the sea on our left when we had to concentrate on time and speed.  We were 2 seconds late on this test. At the finish of this test we still had 50kms or so to travel on gravel but the road followed the coast so it was very scenic.

Finally another long windy drive (320kms) through ordinary scenery to arrive at our Puerto Madryn hotel overlooking the sea.

With tomorrow a rest day most crews were able to relax and tell tall tales of the day's events.

At the end of day 1 we were in 9th position in the classic division, after day 2 were 7th and as at end of day 3 we have moved up the 6th place.

Day 2 (Monday 14th November 2016)
Mar Del Plata to Bahia Blanca   518 kms



First stop was the town of Balcarce, the birthplace of Juan Manuel Fangio and lots of locals out to greet us and photograph the cars. The first man to speak with us was a son of Fangio and he was very interested in our Morgan as he is building a replica. Everyone knows Phil's opinion of replicas but on this occasion he was able to keep his mouth shut. Details were exchanged so that he could send us photographs of his work in progress.

It is a great little museum with an extraordinary amount of silverware and cups won by Fangio during his racing career. The museum shop did a roaring trade with the guys buying souvenir stickers, mugs, books caps. No exception with us even with car space at a premium.

Next stop was the Fangio Autodromo Circuit just out of town. One lap around each circuit was the go and smiles on all the drivers' faces at the end. The Morgan hit 100mph on the main straight and we got a reasonable time for the lap of 2min 55secs. We were flagged off on our lap by the same descendant of Fangio.

Lunch was by the sea at Necochea and again locals came out to photograph the cars. Even roadside workers stop what they are doing and pull out their smart phones to take pictures, wave and cheer.

Today's transport stages were long through wheat and agricultural areas. The wind was strong and buffeted the car (and us) for hundreds of kilometres.

The night stop for the tired and dusty rally participants was Bahia Blanca, a town with a large number of traffic lights and potholed roads. Unfortunately the hotel bar ran out of cold beer.

Day 1 (Sunday 13th November 2016)

Buenos Aires to Mar Del Plata 524 kms

After beautiful weather up until Saturday, Sunday dawned grey and very, very wet for those of us in open cars. First car out was at 7.30am. We were off at 7.43 into the heavy rain. There were two amendments for the exit instructions due to a marathon being held in the area. The transport stage took us through lots of roadside grill houses (parillas) and many roadside huts selling cheeses and salamis. Unfortunately no time to stop and savour the local delicacies.

Through several toll booths we arrived at the Autodromo Mouras for a timed drive around the wet circuit, Two laps only and all the drivers wanted more, such fun was had despite the rain and some puddles on parts of the track.

The next challenge was a Regularity (time/distance test) "Interiagos". We thought we were back on the Alice Classic Trial such was the red dust and rutted track. A tight corner gave the cameras some great photographs (and of course some drivers played up to them).

Driving with lights on is compulsory and it took us a while to realise that the locals in oncoming cars were being friendly & appreciative of the cars by flashing headlights and waving madly.

By this time the rain had eased off and we were drying out. Lunch break was in the spacious grounds of Estancia Las Viboras where we enjoyed smoke grilled lamb and sausages. Local gauchos rode their horses around in a great display of horsemanship.

The final Regularity was "Old Macedo Station" over a gravel road and ending in the pampas grass.
Our stop for the night was at Mar Del Plata, a huge city on the Atlantic coast.
All teams had made it safely to the hotel and undercover by the time a heavy hailstorm hit making a horrendous noise on the hotel roof.

Other Activities

On the social/holiday side of things, we enjoyed 3 days in Santiago (including the national drink of pisco sour), the weather perfect for using the hotel pool. We journeyed out to the boondocks to see a car museum (surprise!). There were 300 cars, mostly American in various conditions and restorations, a couple belonging to ex-Presidents. The colours of the restored cars were "unusual". Of course, my choices of the Palacio and the Fashion Museums were closed (indefinitely).

Next stop was Buenos Aires where we went to the Grande Theatro, an old theatre now used as a huge bookshop and cafe- such a great use of the space without detriment to the interior. We did a 10pm tour of the Palacio Barolo, a perfectly preserved Art Deco building with a lighthouse at the very top where we had a lovely view of the city - not for those prone to vertigo. Thanks to Sally for these 2 recommendations.
Sunday is market day and we walked for hours around the one in San Telmo. On the way we toured El Zanjon, a very old house which was derelict in 1985 and now being restored by the owner ($$$) to preserve it as a museum & its history dating back to the 1740's. Beneath the building were huge crypt like tunnels to drain water as it was originally built over 4 streams.

The next 3 days were spent in Uruguay- one hour ferry to Colonia then 2 hour bus ride to Montevideo. A much poorer country than Argentina. Within the city wonderfully preserved old buildings and mansion houses so we did a 4 hour self guided walk marvelling at the retention of these buildings.
Amazingly we bumped into Jordi, a biologist & guide on the Europa on which we went to Antarctica in February. The Europa was coming in next day for the beginning of its seasonal Artarctic trips.

On the food scene, we are astonished at the huge servings of mainly grilled meat served in both countries. Phil B had a T-bone steak and it completely covered the very large dinner plate.

This morning we sat in the cockpit of Formula 1 driver Juan Fangio's  3-tonne bronze memorial of he and his Mercedes-Benz W class.

Car collection day

Friday 11 November 2016

This afternoon we collected the Puce Goose from the shipping yard.

Being Latin America, the paperwork had not managed to find its way to the shippers, but after a wait of an hour or more we were allowed into the compound to check and start our cars. The paperwork starting to dribble in.

The Goose started straight away and after another holding pattern at the gate we headed off to find petrol.  Our Garmin GPS directed us to several supposed petrol outlets which did not exist,  Blundens in their Healy were with us and took over the hunt, their GPS directing us to the Shell station nearby.

Filled up and back to the Hotel where all cars are all ensconced in the underground carpark.  - All cars that is, apart from one which is somewhere on the high seas and will not get here for the rally, another which is on its way on a truck and several others which are in the air being flown over.

Tonight is cocktails and welcome dinner, tomorrow scrutineering, documentation and a briefing.