Saturday 6th April 2017
Lake Toya to Cape Erimo
Said goodbye to the remaining rally people and headed on our way. It was raining steadily so put the bimani up. The fog was thick but as we descended the mountain from the hotel it cleared. After a short burst on the Expressway we left it to travel on the coastal road. We've previously had the "singing road", today on two occasions we've had "whiny roads". As soon as you drive on them they whine. Initially you think there's a problem with the car.
The coast was nothing like we had imagined. In fact it didn't seem very Japanese at all. For many kilometres it was very industrial. There were also a lot of depressing looking apartment blocks. What stood out was the large number of closed businesses and run-down buildings. Even the houses were not like anything we have seen in Japan. Probably more western looking but without the neat appearance of towns we have seen. Many buildings were derelict and left to fall to ruin. Not many gardens at all and there seemed to be many junk yards. There were lots of car dealerships and many Pachinko (slot machines) places.
The crab was advertising a restaurant, not sure about the bear!
Not far from Shiraoi there was an Ainu Museum. The Ainu people are the indigenous people of Hokkaido with their own language and culture. In the museum grounds there are five thatched houses in the original style.
We were lucky to time a traditional folk dance. One woman played a mukkuri, a mouth harp which was fantastic. Another sang a lullaby to a child with a trilling action with her tongue. There was also a ceremonial dance for sending bears back to heaven.
Salmon curing inside a thatched hut
Playing a 5-stringed instrument
Unfortunately there were 3 caged bears, on concrete floors. They were absolutely huge so hope not to meet any in the wild on our tavels.
The coast was nothing like we had imagined. In fact it didn't seem very Japanese at all. For many kilometres it was very industrial. There were also a lot of depressing looking apartment blocks. What stood out was the large number of closed businesses and run-down buildings. Even the houses were not like anything we have seen in Japan. Probably more western looking but without the neat appearance of towns we have seen. Many buildings were derelict and left to fall to ruin. Not many gardens at all and there seemed to be many junk yards. There were lots of car dealerships and many Pachinko (slot machines) places.
Not far from Shiraoi there was an Ainu Museum. The Ainu people are the indigenous people of Hokkaido with their own language and culture. In the museum grounds there are five thatched houses in the original style.
We were lucky to time a traditional folk dance. One woman played a mukkuri, a mouth harp which was fantastic. Another sang a lullaby to a child with a trilling action with her tongue. There was also a ceremonial dance for sending bears back to heaven.
Singing a lullaby
Salmon curing inside a thatched hut
Playing a 5-stringed instrument
Unfortunately there were 3 caged bears, on concrete floors. They were absolutely huge so hope not to meet any in the wild on our tavels.
Once out of the industrial areas, the landscape became flatter and greener but still with the stunted bamboo growth that we have seen during our time in Hokkaido.
The roads in some places are poorly maintained. There are a huge number of horse and thoroughbred studs throughout this region. Through several towns even the lamp posts were decorated with horse figures.
In several areas on hills above the roads there were concrete bracings. Square open frames of concrete presumably to hold back falling rocks, or snow.
The roads in some places are poorly maintained. There are a huge number of horse and thoroughbred studs throughout this region. Through several towns even the lamp posts were decorated with horse figures.
In several areas on hills above the roads there were concrete bracings. Square open frames of concrete presumably to hold back falling rocks, or snow.
It was a long day on the road, in awful weather but after seven hours we arrived at our destination of Cape Erimo, at the very tip of southern Hokkaido. Our accommodation was the Yanagida Ryokan (or Cliff House) which has been operating since 1916. Our large room is furnished with 1920's furniture and overlooks the sea.
A delicious Japanese meal was included in the price of the room.
A delicious Japanese meal was included in the price of the room.
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