Monday 3^rd April 2017

Up early to get ahead of the crowds at Arashiyama. Walked along the river and then uphill to the bamboo grove. Brides having photographs taken, women in colourful kimonos everywhere. There are supposed to be monkeys in this area according to the warning signs, but we didn’t see any. Despite the hour, there were hordes of people within the grove, taking photos and lots of selfies.

Next was a drive across town to Fushimi Inari shrine. 

This is the shrine that has seemingly endless arcades of orange tori (shrine gates) spread across the wooden slopes of Mt Inari. Throughout the shrine are stone foxes, considered a messenger of the god of cereals. The key in the fox’s mouth is for the rice granary. The fox is seen as sacred, capable of possessing humans – entering under the fingernails.

Last spot for the day was Kiyomizu-dera, again a very crowded area and we were just thinking about missing it when we found a parking spot. Driving uphill through a thick crowd, someone called out to us. It was Adrian, a former employee. Such a small world. He noticed and was admiring the car when he realised it was us.

We happened upon an event at this temple. Coming down the steep steps first of all was a troupe of conch players, then several uniformed men tapping staffs, then women in orange robes and half masks. Finally a very large dragon came down bucking and weaving. The whole procession made its way down the narrow street. On our way out the dragon was on its way back up to the temple. It roared towards us as we were standing outside waiting for the troupe to pass. 

Parking for this short period was $20 and it was a self service machine. It was all in Japanese and with a little help from a local we managed to feed the machine all the coins we had (it didn’t take notes which is unusual here). The government certainly does not encourage car driving as tolls and parking are very costly.

Dinner was shabu-shabu, where you cook very thin slices of meat in a heated pan at your table.

Sunday 2^nd April 2017

We had a poor start to the day. We headed for a flea market in a local shrine and ended up out in the countryside. Anyway, it was a nice sunny morning for a Sunday drive!

Returning to Kyoto we drove out to Arashiyama which has many shrines and a well-known bamboo grove, with thick stalks reaching to the sky. There were people everywhere- thousands of them. We decided to come back tomorrow when it may be quieter on a weekday.

Parking the car back at the hotel we walked (and walked!) to the Path of Philosophy – a narrow walkway along a canal lined with cherry trees. Not many in blossom yet but it is a pleasant traffic free walk.

Back into town, tourists ( westerners and local) everywhere. We walked along Shimbashi (some say the most beautiful street in Asia). Women and young girls were dressed in beautiful, colourful kimonos and looked most elegant. Cherry blossoms were out along the canal and many brides/grooms were having photos taken. We saw two geishas walking together, beautifully groomed with impassive faces. Cameras were working overtime.

At Gion Corner he heard about an hour concert which gives short performances on seven traditional arts of Japan. Arriving at the theatre there was already a long queue. Bought tickets and were entertained by a Tea Ceremony, a Koto (Japanese harp), Flower Arranging, Court Music, Ancient Comic Play, Kyoto style dance and a Puppet Play.

As it was now dark, we wandered down the Ponte-Cho, a pedestrian walkway lined with traditional wooden houses, many now converted to restaurants and bars. The walkway is lit by colourful lanterns.

Had a very hot onsen back at the ryokan.

Saturday 1^st April 2017

Before leaving Nagoya this morning we noticed on the TV that as part of the morning show there was a report on the percentage of cherry blossoms that had appeared. People are eager to see them in bloom as it is a tradition to have a hanami (picnic) under them.

Still drizzling and after early start easily found the Daiichi Museum which was holding a “Glass World Exhibition of Art Deco”. It is a very small museum but showing some fabulous French pieces by Galle, Daum and Lalique. We were lucky we noticed this exhibition on a flyer as it ends in a few days’ time.

Also exhibited were modern pieces by Dale Chihuly from Seattle, USA.

We then headed, or thought we did, for Kyoto but we found ourselves heading east when Kyoto is to the west. It seems we must have had the wrong co-ordinates in the GPS. We got onto the motorway and passed through some massive tunnels, 3 and 4 kms in length. No wonder tolls are so expensive.

Kyoto has many narrow, one way roads/lanes and we had difficulty finding our hotel. We are staying in a ryokan, newish but in the traditional style – futons on the floor, very low tables and chairs – hips are feeling it!

Lots of tourists here, the only ones we’ve seen since Tokyo, and expect that all the major tourist towns will be crowded now that the cherry trees are starting to blossom.

Friday 31^st March 2017

Caught the “Me-Guru” bus for our first stop of the day, the Toyota Commemorative Museum of Industry and Technology. Tickets cost about $6 for a one day pass which also gives discounts for entry to the various facilities.

This facility preserves a vast amount of textile machinery, one of the key industries which helped build modern Japan and which evolved into automotive technology.

You enter through the Textile Machinery Pavilion where there is a very large circular loom which symbolizes the “spirit of being studious and creative”. Beyond is every type of machinery used in spinning and weaving. All the machinery is working so it is quite noisy and many of the exhibits have an employee doing demonstrations. We even received a sample of woven cloth, hot off the press!

After the vast textile area you pass into the Automobile Pavilion. This starts with metalworking, casting, forging & cutting and then goes on to demonstrate the trial and error effort behind the casting of the cylinder block. Next is a replica of the first passenger car completed in 1936 through the efforts of the branching into vehicles by the founder’s son. Fascinating was the modern day assembly robot demonstrations, with so much hi-tech machinery fitting nicely together and producing a car!

Back on the bus and the next stop was Noritake porcelain/ceramic centre. Inside the Craft Centre you progressed through the techniques of the making of bone china. Upstairs over two floors the museum features Noritake pieces through the ages, including the first dinner set to be made in Japan.

Next up was Nagoya Castle. This was rebuilt in 1959 after being mostly destroyed in the war. The original castle dated from 1610. Castle is surrounded by a wide moat. From the Observation room at the top (34mts) you have a good view of this large city (it was drizzling rain so the view wasn’t so good today). We saw in the paper today that it is planned to rebuild the castle in original timber removing the existing concrete.

Final stop was a 1920’s house, Futaba Palace, where the first modern actress in Japan lived. She became a geisha at 16 years old and performed on the stage for the first time in America. The house has beautiful stained glass windows and the doors and stairs are typical of the era.

Thursday 30^th March 2017

Last night Michael arranged to pick us up and take us to the Toyota Automobile Museum. Two floors of a very eclectic range of cars. All in beautiful condition and many in original condition, including the upholstery.

Just getting out of the car we heard a distinctive Morgan sound. Up drove Mr Teshima in his 2002 very dark green 4/4. Walked around the museum together. The only Morgan in the museum was a late 1920’s aero 3-wheeler in original condition. We did the obligatory photo of the Morgan people standing in front.

After 2 hours admiring the well-kept cars in pristine condition (Bugatti typre 57, an Alpha 6C supercharged 1750, a Duesenberg, and several Hispana Suiza. we headed back to Nagoya.

We wandered down the street to find the location for the hop-on, hop-off bus for tomorrow. It wasn’t far from the hotel and right outside the galaxy platform of the Spaceship Aqua. This is an elevated glass platform containing a shallow water pond, about 30mts above street level.

Nagoya was destroyed during WW11 as it manufactured Zero fighter planes so all the architecture dates from the rebuild in the 1950’s. It is the third largest city in Japan.

For dinner we found a tiny hole in the wall type place and sat at the bench (with 6 others) in front of the kitchen watching the chef prepare everything. A man seated next to us had his own private bottle of “something”, it didn’t look like sake and was clear. Apparently regulars keep their numbered bottles in a special shelf for the next time they visit (which must be fairly often).

Wednesday 29^th March 2017

As Nagoya is only 70kms away and check-in time is never before 3pm we decided to take a drive to Morasaki located on the Chita Hanto peninsula. Travelled through lots of deserted looking towns (similar to France where the buildings hug the road and no-one about). Again, little traffic but lots of traffic lights. Maybe roundabouts would be quicker but no-one seems to be in a hurry. The distances have no bearing to the time it takes to travel somewhere. Only no toll roads today.

We came across a shop that had flying fish blowing in the wind, like wind socks. Phil has been admiring them for several days so we went in and bought a 2mt one. They are Koinobori (carp) and on Children’s day in April/May they are flown to celebrate the carps’ courage and strength and their ability to swim up waterfalls. After purchase we were shown the workshop and given gifts of silk handkerchiefs and a vibrating fish.

We continued along the coast and came to an area where there were about 100 people collecting mussels along the shore whilst the tide was out. Apparently they fill buckets and are charged 1500y (about $18) for 4kgs or 700y for 1 kg.

We reached Nagoya about 4pm and drove down the parking ramp. Out came the security man and measured the length of the Morgan, then motioned us on. He decided that the car was too low slung to fit onto the stacker lift.  Much ado then about where we could park and finally motioned into a space right outside the security man’s office.

At 7pm Michael, the Morgan Club Overseas Liaison Officer, and his wife Junko picked us up and drove us to a tempura restaurant owned by a former chairman of the Club, Mr Katayama. The restaurant has been operated by his family for 50 years. We sat on a low bench (leaving shoes at the door) and the cooking was done in front of us. Food was excellent and more delicate than tempura we have had before…delicious.

Michael & Junko run a business supplying the interiors for Toyota, currently Lexus. The business has been in Junko’s family for 60 years.

Mr Katayama was absolutely delighted with the Morgan badge. He stood at the door waving to us until we were out of sight.

Tuesday 28^th March 2017

Sunny morning but still cool.

Decided on one English breakfast (green lettuce with a strawberry and a homemade orange bun, a speciality of the region as many orange orchards in the area), and one Japanese. With Japanese meals you never know what to eat first or which sauce goes with what. Phil yesterday thought he was doing well and sought the waitress’ confirmation. Wrong! He did the equivalent of tipping his plate of porridge onto his scrambled eggs!

As we are spending another night in Gamamori decided to drive out and do a circuit of the nearby peninsula, through a large industrial area to the sea. The region is full of market gardens and an extraordinary number of large agricultural hothouses. Passed many, many crops of cabbages which were protected by blue or yellow netting. Great to see the restaurants and cafes using local produce.

Near Atsumi we walked up to the lighthouse – very different in the modern brutalist design. The exterior had bas relief of flying hawks in the upper concrete. We’ve seen many, many hawks flying around so the image is very appropriate.

Near the parking area there were a few small establishments offering seafood- so fresh and enticing that we had clams, a huge mussel (20 cms long) and the usual small dishes of pickles, rice and seaweed. Asahi produce a non-alcohol beer which all the drivers drink- may have to import this to Aus!.

Driving is pretty straightforward with traffic lights on many corners with lengthy cycles. Traffic is quite light, considerably less than expected and very polite drivers (still no horns heard). The serviced petrol stations do a careful wash of the windscreen and also the side mirrors.

For dinner we were able to get a reservation at the 14 seat Teppanyaki restaurant in the grounds of the hotel. The chef cooked on a very large, very clean hotplate in front of us. He put items into a pan, showed us how fresh they were and then proceeded to cook them. First meat we’ve had since arrival in Japan. A Vosne Romanee red wine accompanied the steak. Dessert was icecream topped with a delicious flambe orange sauce.